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VICTORIA FALLS & BEYOND

The two day Rovos Rail journey north through Botswana and Zimbabwe to Victoria Falls is one of those “must do” journeys of a lifetime. Seduced by the gentle rocking of Africa’s most luxurious train, fine food, and the chink of cut glass crystal and sliver, one slowly wends through hundreds of miles of bushveld on this iconic rail trip north from Pretoria. Despite its luxury, this trip feels like a true journey into the African hinterland.
  
Pulse Africa consultant Natasha Springer went on the Rovos Rail trip to Victoria Falls, taking in the island camps of the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers, in late 2009. Besides viewing the vast African landscape by train, she viewed herds of elephants by boat and wild dogs by four wheel-drive vehicle on her nine-day safari which took in five countries. Her preferred method of travel? Definitely boat! "The tranquility of viewing animals at close quarters by boat was incomparable,” she says.

The island camps of the Chobe and Zambezi are seductive spots, from Sindabezi, with its five open-fronted chalets providing the most romantic of island experiences, to charming Ichingo Lodge on lush Impalila Island.

Languishing in the midst of the Zambezi, Sindabezi is one of those idyllic spots you never want to leave. If you do raise yourself, don't miss out on the boat trip to Livingstone Island, clinging to its prime position on the edge of The Victoria Falls. Drenched and deafened by spray, you'll enjoy an island-style lunch here you will never forget. Then there's the famous plunge into Devil's Pool right on the lip of the falls. "It is simply exhilarating,” says Natasha. "Just don't jump too far to the right!”

Journeying westwards to Impalila Island involves negotiating the confluence of four countries (Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe) as well as the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi rivers. Ichingo Chobe River Lodge is a warm, friendly establishment run by welcoming hosts Dawn and Ralph Oxenham. Days and evenings can be whiled away in the open living area overlooking the Chobe River, or else you can explore the river by tender boat. "Game viewing by boat makes a wonderful change from game drives,” says Natasha. "We viewed elephants at eye level and avoided other people almost entirely.”

If you haven't tired of the river, hire one of the two Ichobezi houseboats owned by Ralph and Dawn and spend a few days cruising down the Chobe River in luxury. Each boat has four rooms each, with large screens which can be opened up to the river, an upstairs living area and small plunge pool. This is the most intense river experience of the region, floating lazily along with only herds of animals and numerous birds for company. Pure bliss!


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