Bordering the largest expanse of sand in the world in the oasis of Siwa is Adrere Amellal. Guests stay in one of thirty two traditional Siwan cottages, each individually crafted by local builders using thick mud walls with unpaned, shuttered windows and niches where candles provide the only light. Ceilings are beamed with palm logs and rooms are furnished simply but elegantly with carved wooden trunks, Bedouin rugs, poles for hanging clothes and thick duvets. Guests can tour the village of Siwa, with its 13th-century-old enclave of Shali and the hillsides with their honeycomb of tombs. Four-wheel-drive treks into the desert, where guides brew traditional Arabic tea as the sunsets over the largest sand dune in the world are unforgettable.